1913 – 1998, Expedition Leader

Albert Eggler was an outstanding all-round Alpine expert who had proved his capabilities on many long and difficult high-altitude tours in the Berner Oberland and the Mont Blanc region. During military courses in the mountains, he gained experience of management in leadership functions, as well as comprehensive knowledge of team-work in mountainous conditions, bivouac construction, materials and advance and retreat. A member of the Academic Alpine Club Bern (the AACB) from 1934, he belonged to that elite group of mountaineers around Wolfgang Diehl who were observing developments around the climbs in the Himalayas. At the beginning of 1955, the SSAF appointed Albert Eggler as overall leader for the 1956 Expedition.

1908 – 1990, Deputy Expedition Leader

Diehl’s sense of direction and experience of the mountains were widely regarded as practically legendary. He had acquired expedition experience during summers in Greenland, as Alpine escort to the expeditions undertaken there by Lauge Koch.

1912 – 1988

Dr. Hans Grimm came from Wädenswil, and had traversed most of the difficult routes in the Alps. As a dentist, he had practical medical expertise, as well as great experience of the mountains.

Born in 1928, responsible for food and resources

Third ascent of Mount Everest on 24^th May 1956.

First-class mountain and ice climber. He and his brother-in-law Ernst Schmied were amongst those citizens of Bern who were keen on the stiffer type of mountaineering. Both had become familiar with the finest routes in the Alps, often in the company of Wolfgang Diehl.

1928 – 2000, Expedition Doctor

Albert Eggler searched long and hard for an expedition doctor, and Edi (Edouard) Leuthold was the last to join the expedition team. Edi Leuthold was recognised as a skilled skier, who had already completed various high-altitude ski trips, and who had an interest in mountaineering. He stood out in particular for his resolute attitude and manner.

1921 – 1983, responsible for equipment and clothing.

First ascent of Lhotse on 18^th May 1956

Fritz Luchsinger was in the same rope team as Ernst Reiss and Dölf Reist. These three were very different in character, but formed a homogenous group, in which Luchsinger’s place was vital, with his energy, stamina, selflessness and keen powers of observation.

Born in 1927, responsible for oxygen equipment.

Second ascent of Mount Everest on 23^th May 1956.

Jürg Marmet had earned his commission as a mountain guide, had undertaken difficult trips throughout the whole of Switzerland and had acquired expedition experience in the frozen wastes of Baffin Island. Even there, he was distinguished by his mountaineering skill, and was the first to climb many difficult peaks.

1926 – 1980, geographer and glaciologist.

Scientific glaciological investigations of the Khumbu glacier.

Müller had experience of expeditions from his scientific activities in Greenland and the Canadian Arctic, as well as being a good mountaineer.

Born in 1920, lead climber, responsible for mountaineering equipment and clothing.

First ascent of Lhotse on 18^th May 1956.

Reiss’s name is linked to countless extremely difficult tours in the Alps. He could be said to incorporate the union of technical expertise, physical fitness and unshakeable mountaineering idealism.

Reiss was a member of the second Geneva Everest Expedition in the autumn of 1952. This reached the south saddle, at a height of 8100m, and he was therefore familiar with a large part of the route of ascent.

1921 – 2000, responsible for equipment and clothing.

Third ascent of Mount Everest on 24^th May 1956.

Dölf Reist had accompanied Ernst Reiss on many difficult trips. These two formed what was probably one of the best leaderless rope teams in Switzerland. Dölf Reist had undertaken countless difficult trips during the winter, in every area of the Alps. He had astonishing practical talents and manual skill, an excellent experience of the mountains and fitness level, and a well-adjusted temperament.

1924 – 2002, responsible for food and resources

Second ascent of Mount Everest on 23^th May 1956

Ernst Schmied hailed from Bern, and rapidly developed into a very keen mountaineer. He climbed his way through practically every north face between Mönch and Grosshorn, as well as the Lauper route on the Eiger, the north ridge of the Fischerwand, the NW wall of the Ochs etc. He met Dora von Gunten, Hansruedi von Gunten’s sister, on one of his climbing trips, and married her in 1953. He and his wife were jointly responsible for estimating and supplying the food provisions for the Expedition.