{"id":1989,"date":"2021-07-26T14:28:46","date_gmt":"2021-07-26T12:28:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/alpinfo.flake.work\/portrait\/historischer-rueckblick\/schweizer-im-himalaya\/expeditionsteilnehmer-1956\/"},"modified":"2021-09-24T16:40:05","modified_gmt":"2021-09-24T14:40:05","slug":"expedition-participants-1956","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/portrait\/historical-notes\/swiss-in-the-himalayas\/expedition-participants-1956\/","title":{"rendered":"1956"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2>Participants in the 1956 Mount Everest\/Lhotse expedition<\/h2>\n<h3>Selection criteria and roles of participants from the perspective of expedition leader Albert Eggler*<\/h3>\n<p><span class=\"eap-shortcode-selectable\"><style id=\"ea_dynamic_css2329\">#sp-ea-2329 .spcollapsing{height: 0; overflow: hidden; transition-property: height; transition-duration: 500ms;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single.eap_inactive>.ea-header a {background-color: #bb0000 !important; color: #fff !important;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single{ margin-bottom: 0px; border: 1px solid #ffffff; border-radius: 3px;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single.ea-expand{ border-color: #ffffff;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single:hover{ border-color: #ffffff;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header a {background: #ffffff;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single.ea-expand>.ea-header a {background: #f0f0f0;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header:hover a {background: #e20000;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header a .eap-title-icon { color: #444;font-size: 20px;} #sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header a .eap-title-custom-icon {max-width: 20px;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header:hover a .eap-title-icon {color: #444;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single.ea-expand>.ea-header a .eap-title-icon {color: #444;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header a {padding: 15px 15px 15px 15px; color: #000000; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1px; text-align: left; letter-spacing: 0px; text-transform: none;font-family: Helvetica; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header:hover a {color: #ffffff;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single.ea-expand>.ea-header a {color: #000000;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body p,#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body{background: #fff; padding: 15px 15px 15px 15px; border-radius: 0 0 3px 3px; color: #000000; font-size: 16px; text-align: left; letter-spacing: 0px; line-height: 26px; animation-delay: 200ms; text-transform: none;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header a .ea-expand-icon.fa:before {color: ; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header:hover a .ea-expand-icon.fa:before {color: ;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single.ea-expand>.ea-header a .ea-expand-icon.fa:before {color: #f0f0f0;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single{border-radius: 3px; border: 1px solid #ffffff;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body{border-radius: 0 0 3px 3px; border: none;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.ea-header a .ea-expand-icon.fa {float: left; margin-right: 10px;}#sp-ea-2329 #eap_faq_search_bar_container {display:none; opacity:0;}#sp-ea-2329 #eap_faq_search_bar_container span::before{content:\"\";}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body p{ padding:0px}#sp-ea-2329>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body .eap-product-price {color: #444;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body .eap-product-price del{color: rgba(68,68,68,0.71);}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body .eap-product-cart-button .woocommerce a { border: 1px solid #DAD6DA;border-radius: 2px;background-color: transparent;color: #444;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body .eap-product-cart-button .woocommerce a:hover { border-color: #444;background-color: #444;color: #fff;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>>.sp-collapse>.ea-body .eap-product-cart-button .eap-product-quantity .eap_input_text {border: 1px solid #DAD6DA;}#sp-ea-2329.sp-easy-accordion>.sp-ea-single>.sp-collapse>.ea-body .eap-product-cart-button a.add_to_cart_button{position: relative;}<\/style><div id=\"sp-eap-accordion-section-2329\" class=\"sp-eap-container\"><div id=\"sp-ea-2329\" class=\"sp-ea-one sp-easy-accordion \" data-ex-icon=\"fa-angle-right\" data-col-icon=\"fa-angle-down\" data-ea-active=\"ea-click\" data-ea-mode=\"vertical\" data-ea-multi-column=\"\" data-ea-coll=\"\" data-keep-accordion=\"\" data-autoclose=\"\" data-preloader=\"\" data-scroll-active-item=\"\" data-offset-to-scroll=\"0\" data-autoplaytime=\"3000\" data-expand=\"\" data-post-id=\"2329\" >\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"0\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23290\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-albert-eggler\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Albert Eggler\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23290\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1347 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/albert-eggler.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1913 \u2013 1998<\/strong>, Expedition Leader<\/p>\n<p>Albert Eggler was an outstanding all-round Alpine expert who had proved his capabilities on many long and difficult high-altitude tours in the Berner Oberland and the Mont Blanc region. During military courses in the mountains, he gained experience of management in leadership functions, as well as comprehensive knowledge of team-work in mountainous conditions, bivouac construction, materials and advance and retreat. A member of the Academic Alpine Club Bern (the AACB) from 1934, he belonged to that elite group of mountaineers around Wolfgang Diehl who were observing developments around the climbs in the Himalayas. At the beginning of 1955, the SSAF appointed Albert Eggler as overall leader for the 1956 Expedition.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"1\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23291\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-wolfgang-diehl\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Wolfgang Diehl\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23291\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1353 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/wolfgang-diehl.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1908 \u2013 1990<\/strong>, Deputy Expedition Leader<\/p>\n<p>Diehl\u2019s sense of direction and experience of the mountains were widely regarded as practically legendary. He had acquired expedition experience during summers in Greenland, as Alpine escort to the expeditions undertaken there by Lauge Koch.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"2\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23292\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-hans-grimm\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Hans Grimm\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23292\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1356 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/hans-grimm.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1912 \u2013 1988<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Dr. Hans Grimm came from W\u00e4denswil, and had traversed most of the difficult routes in the Alps. As a dentist, he had practical medical expertise, as well as great experience of the mountains.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"3\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23293\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-hansruedi-von-gunten\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Hansruedi von Gunten\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23293\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1360 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/hansruedi-von-gunten.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Born in 1928<\/strong>, responsible for food and resources<\/p>\n<p><i>Third ascent of Mount Everest on 24<sup>th<\/sup> May 1956.<\/i><\/p>\n<p>First-class mountain and ice climber. He and his brother-in-law Ernst Schmied were amongst those citizens of Bern who were keen on the stiffer type of mountaineering. Both had become familiar with the finest routes in the Alps, often in the company of Wolfgang Diehl.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"4\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23294\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-edi-leuthold\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Edi Leuthold\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23294\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1363 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/edi-edward-leuthold.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1928 \u2013 2000<\/strong>, Expedition Doctor<\/p>\n<p>Albert Eggler searched long and hard for an expedition doctor, and Edi (Edouard) Leuthold was the last to join the expedition team. Edi Leuthold was recognised as a skilled skier, who had already completed various high-altitude ski trips, and who had an interest in mountaineering. He stood out in particular for his resolute attitude and manner.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"5\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23295\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-fritz-luchsinger\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Fritz Luchsinger\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23295\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1366 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/fritz-felix-luchsinger.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1921 \u2013 1983<\/strong>, responsible for equipment and clothing.<\/p>\n<p><i>First ascent of Lhotse on 18<sup>th<\/sup> May 1956<\/i><\/p>\n<p>Fritz Luchsinger was in the same rope team as Ernst Reiss and D\u00f6lf Reist. These three were very different in character, but formed a homogenous group, in which Luchsinger\u2019s place was vital, with his energy, stamina, selflessness and keen powers of observation.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"6\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23296\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-jurg-marmet\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  J\u00fcrg Marmet\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23296\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1369 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/juerg-marmet.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Born in 1927<\/strong>, responsible for oxygen equipment.<\/p>\n<p><i>Second ascent of Mount Everest on 23<sup>th<\/sup> May 1956.<br \/>\n<\/i><\/p>\n<p>J\u00fcrg Marmet had earned his commission as a mountain guide, had undertaken difficult trips throughout the whole of Switzerland and had acquired expedition experience in the frozen wastes of Baffin Island. Even there, he was distinguished by his mountaineering skill, and was the first to climb many difficult peaks.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"7\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23297\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-fritz-muller\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Fritz M\u00fcller\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23297\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1372 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/fritz-mueller.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1926 \u2013 1980<\/strong>, geographer and glaciologist.<\/p>\n<p>Scientific glaciological investigations of the Khumbu glacier.<\/p>\n<p>M\u00fcller had experience of expeditions from his scientific activities in Greenland and the Canadian Arctic, as well as being a good mountaineer.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"8\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23298\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-ernst-reiss\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Ernst Reiss\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23298\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1378 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/ernst-reiss-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>Born in 1920<\/strong>, lead climber, responsible for mountaineering equipment and clothing.<\/p>\n<p><i>First ascent of Lhotse on 18<sup>th<\/sup> May 1956.<\/i><\/p>\n<p>Reiss\u2019s name is linked to countless extremely difficult tours in the Alps. He could be said to incorporate the union of technical expertise, physical fitness and unshakeable mountaineering idealism.<\/p>\n<p>Reiss was a member of the second Geneva Everest Expedition in the autumn of 1952. This reached the south saddle, at a height of 8100m, and he was therefore familiar with a large part of the route of ascent.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"9\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse23299\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-dolf-reist\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  D\u00f6lf Reist\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse23299\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1381 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/doelf-reist.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>1921 \u2013 2000<\/strong>, responsible for equipment and clothing.<\/p>\n<p><i>Third ascent of Mount Everest on 24<sup>th<\/sup> May 1956.<\/i><\/p>\n<p>D\u00f6lf Reist had accompanied Ernst Reiss on many difficult trips. These two formed what was probably one of the best leaderless rope teams in Switzerland. D\u00f6lf Reist had undertaken countless difficult trips during the winter, in every area of the Alps. He had astonishing practical talents and manual skill, an excellent experience of the mountains and fitness level, and a well-adjusted temperament.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-card  sp-ea-single\"  data-accordion-id= \"10\">\n\n\t\t<h5 class=\"ea-header\">\n\t\t\t<a class=\"collapsed\" data-sptoggle=\"spcollapse\" rel=\"nofollow\" data-sptarget=\"#collapse232910\" href=\"#\" data-title=\"efaq-ernst-schmied\" aria-expanded=\"false\">\n\t\t\t\t<i class=\"ea-expand-icon fa fa-angle-down\"><\/i>  Ernst Schmied\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h5>\n\n\t\t<div class=\"sp-collapse spcollapse spcollapse\" id=\"collapse232910\" data-parent=\"#sp-ea-2329\">\n\t\t<div class=\"ea-body\"> \n<div class=\"ea-content-wrapper \"> \n\t<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1384 size-full alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/ernst-schmied.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"198\" height=\"230\" \/><\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>1924 \u2013 2002<\/strong>, responsible for food and resources<\/p>\n<p><i>Second ascent of Mount Everest on 23<sup>th<\/sup> May 1956<\/i><\/p>\n<p>Ernst Schmied hailed from Bern, and rapidly developed into a very keen mountaineer. He climbed his way through practically every north face between M\u00f6nch and Grosshorn, as well as the Lauper route on the Eiger, the north ridge of the Fischerwand, the NW wall of the Ochs etc. He met Dora von Gunten, Hansruedi von Gunten\u2019s sister, on one of his climbing trips, and married her in 1953. He and his wife were jointly responsible for estimating and supplying the food provisions for the Expedition.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div><\/div><\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>*(see Eggler, Albert: Gipfel \u00fcber den Wolken Lhotse und Everest. A Special Edition of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research Book Series Directed by Othmar Gurtner.) Hallwag Bern 1956).<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Portraits of Albert Eggler and Ernst Schmied from the above book. Written by Daniel Dummermuth, Vice President of the SAC Division Bern. Compiled by Etienne Gross<\/em><\/p>\n<div class=\"rl-gallery-container rl-loading\" id=\"rl-gallery-container-1\" data-gallery_id=\"2747\"> <div class=\"rl-gallery rl-basicgrid-gallery \" id=\"rl-gallery-1\" data-gallery_no=\"1\"> <div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/088_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/088_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/087_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/087_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/086_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/086_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/085_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/085_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/084_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/084_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/083_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/083_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/082_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/082_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/081_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/081_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/080_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/080_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/079_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/079_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/078_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/078_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/077_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/077_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/075_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/075_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/073_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/073_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/072_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/072_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/070_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/070_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/069_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/069_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/066_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/066_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/065_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/065_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/064_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/064_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/059_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/059_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/057_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/057_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/056_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/056_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/055_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/055_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/054_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/054_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/052_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/052_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/051_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/051_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/050_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/050_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/049_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/049_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/047_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/047_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/043_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/043_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/042_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/042_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/040_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/040_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/039_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/039_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/038_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/038_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/037_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/037_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/036_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/036_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/035_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/035_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/034_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/034_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/033_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/033_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/032_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/032_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/031_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/031_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/030_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/030_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/029_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/029_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/028_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/028_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/027_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/027_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/026_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/026_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/026_Everest_1952.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/026_Everest_1952-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/024_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/024_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/023_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/023_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/022_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/022_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/020_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/020_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/018_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/018_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/016_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/016_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/012_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/012_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/007_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/007_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/004_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/004_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/003_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/003_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/002_Everest_1956-scaled.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/002_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div><div class=\"rl-gallery-item\"><a href=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/001_Everest_1956.jpg\" title=\"\" data-rl_title=\"\" class=\"rl-gallery-link\" data-rl_caption=\"\" data-rel=\"lightbox-gallery-1\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/001_Everest_1956-150x150.jpg\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" alt=\"\"\/><\/a><\/div> <\/div> <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Participants in the 1956 Mount Everest\/Lhotse expedition Selection criteria and roles of participants from the perspective of expedition leader Albert Eggler* &nbsp; *(see Eggler, Albert: Gipfel \u00fcber den Wolken Lhotse und Everest. A Special Edition of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research Book Series Directed by Othmar Gurtner.) Hallwag Bern 1956). Portraits of Albert Eggler [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":566,"menu_order":2,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"template-schweizer.php","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"class_list":["post-1989","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1989","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1989"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1989\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2930,"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1989\/revisions\/2930"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/566"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/alpinfo.ch\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1989"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}